Most of you probably might have been familiar with the ‘Loy Krathong’ festival, in which the sceneries of the lantern-filled sky or a river swamped by floating candlelit ‘Krathongs’. This outstandingly picturesque and magical festival in the Northern part of Thailand aka. Lanna is known by another name: the ‘Yee Peng’ festival. This year, Yee Peng in Chiang Mai will be held during November 20^th – 23^rd. As a Chiang Mai local, allow me to share some insider’s tips and tricks of what the festival is about and how you can participate in the festivities.

Decorative Lanterns

Yee Peng is derived from two words in northern Thai dialect: ‘Yee’ and ‘Peng’. ‘Yee’ refers to the second month in the old Lanna calendar which is November, while ‘Peng’ means a full-moon night. ‘Yee Peng’ thus means a full moon night in November, and the date of Yee Peng festival accordingly varies each year, dependent on the cycle of the full moon.

Actually, Yee Peng and Loy Krathong are two different festivals but with the same purposes in celebrations. All over Thailand, we mainly celebrate the festival to show our gratefulness towards the Goddess of river for the whole year’s abundant supply of water for the rice farming by floating candlelit ‘Krathongs’ onto the river. ‘Loy’ means to float and a ‘Krathong’ refers to a decorated buoyant. For that reason, the action of floating Krathongs has become the name of the festival. Nevertheless, the Lanna version of Loy Krathong is to honor the Lord Buddha and the spirits that are believed to look after us by lighting candles and letting go illuminated lanterns up in the sky. 

A Krathong on parade

Coincidently, Yee Peng and Loy Krathong take place around the same period of time. That might explain why the two festivals have been merged. Even though the festival is held all over the country and usually lasts for 3 days, it isn’t considered a public holiday. Most of the activities during the festival are usually held in the evening, and the venues are scattered throughout Chiang Mai.

Lanna candles

I vividly recall from my childhood that, during Yee Peng, Chiang Mai was always decorated with colorful lanterns and handcrafted Lanna style flagged all over the city. Entrances of houses and buildings would be decorated with beautiful flowers, banana trunks, and coconut branches. At night, our family lighted up Lanna-style candles and placed them around our house. Then we would go to the nearest river to float Krathongs, or if we were lucky enough to get a table at a riverside restaurant, we would float the Krathongs after the meal. A traditional Krathong is made of a slice of a banana tree trunk with banana leaves folded around it and decorated with colorful flowers, a candle and three joss sticks. Also, whenever I looked up at the sky, I would see flocks of illuminated lanterns with a background of the most beautiful moon and also the noises of firecrackers.

Lanna Flags

Even though that was my memory from 30 years ago, if you are in Chiang Mai during the festival, you will still be able to see all the things I mentioned. Most of the activities will be held in the evening at Tha Pae Gate and the Three Kings Monument. Moreover, especially in big temples in the old town such as Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phra Singh, or Wat Phan Tao, they will gorgeously be decorated with colorful lanterns, Lanna flags and candles. Also, the carnival-like parade on Nov 23^rd starting around 18.00 hrs. around the moat should not be missed.

Lanterns in front of the three kings monument

If you’d like to float a Krathong, you can find vendors with ready-made Krathongs by the moat or the river. You can check with your hotel, since a Krathong workshop for guests are available, in which you will get to learn how to make a Krathong and bring your very own to float on the river. Nowadays, you will also find the Krathongs with a twist. Locals make them from loaves of bread or ice cream cones which can be eaten by fish and also environmentally friendly. For floating a lantern, you will be able to do this on the Nawarat Bridge after 18.00 hrs. Setting free a candlelit Krathong or a heated lantern is symbolic for letting go all the bad lucks and welcoming the new beginnings, so before you let go your Krathong or lantern, don’t forget to make a wish.

Setting free a lantern

Apart from vendors selling lanterns and Krathongs along the river, it is a perfect opportunity to explore Thai hawker food stalls and to try as many dishes of Thai food as you want. Grab some food and drinks from vendors and find a spot by the river to chill. You can enjoy the moment while watching the flickering lights from Krathongs along the river and the most magnificent-looking moon is just above you. 

If you won’t be in Chiang Mai this year, I’d really like to recommend you to put Yee Peng in Chaing Mai in your travel checklist. It is truly a must-see.

All photos credits to: Nuttapong Puanpaongam